Colore testo Icone Desktop
You have to change the file: gtk-widgets.css, located probably in /usr/share/themes/YOUR_THEME_NAME/gtk-3.0
The CSS class responding to desktop icon text is .nautilus-desktop.nautilus-canvas-item.
When you change the color, you have to do more than Alt+F2 and r, it's necessary to kill the Nautilus desktop instance. Simply run killall nautilus, and then open some windowed Nautilus instance -- it should launch the desktop.